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Field Investigation Tour of Liuyang Xiabu (Grass Cloth) Intangible Cultural Heritage

今天我們來(lái)到的是湖南瀏陽(yáng)，中國(guó)著名的花炮之鄉(xiāng)。然而，鮮為人知的是，這里有一款寶藏被譽(yù)為“天然纖維之王”。2021年，瀏陽(yáng)夏布織造技藝被列入湖南省非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表性項(xiàng)目名錄。

Today, we are in Liuyang, Hunan Province, the famous hometown of firecrackers in China. However, it is not well recognized that there is a treasure here known as “the King of Natural Fibers”. In 2021, Liuyang Xiabu (Grass Cloth) weaving technique was inscribed on the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage Projects of Hunan Province.

所以它的前世今生有哪些故事？我們一起去看看！

So what's the story of its past and present life? Let's go and see!

夏布早在明代就是朝廷貢品，具有精巧細(xì)膩、防霉防菌、通風(fēng)透氣、吸濕性強(qiáng)的特點(diǎn)。它越洗越柔，不易腐爛，在國(guó)際面料屆被譽(yù)為“中國(guó)草”。

Liuyang Xiabu has been an imperial tribute since Ming Dynasty, which is exquisite and delicate, of anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties with high air permeability and moisture permeability.

It becomes softer with each wash, thus uneasy to be broken, and is known as “Chinese grass” in the global textile industry.

瀏陽(yáng)夏布制作有十大工序: 一是剝麻；二是刮麻；三是漂麻；四是績(jī)茨；五是繞麻團(tuán)；六是整經(jīng)；七是插筘；八是漿紗；九是紡織；十是晾布。

The production of Liuyang Xiabu involves 10 major processes: The first step is stripping; the second is scraping; the third step is bleaching; the fourth step called “Jici”in Chinese is wetting, tearing, and twisting the processed ramie fiber together to form threads; the fifth is winding ramie threads into balls; the sixth is warping; the seventh is sleying the reed; the eighth is sizing ramie yarns; the ninth is weaving cloth; the tenth is drying cloth.

現(xiàn)在，手中的夏布成品剛剛經(jīng)過(guò)十道工序完成。傳統(tǒng)手工制作過(guò)程尚且考究復(fù)雜，那在工業(yè)化、機(jī)械化的時(shí)代背景中，這項(xiàng)非遺手藝傳承是否也曾遭遇困境？

Now in my hand is a finished piece of Xiabu that has just gone through ten procedures. Considering meticulous and complex processes of the traditional craft, in the context of the era of industrialization and mechanization, has the intangible cultural heritage ever been on the verge of collapse?

省級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表性傳承人、瀏陽(yáng)夏布第四代傳承人梁長(zhǎng)進(jìn)

省級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表性傳承人、瀏陽(yáng)夏布第四代傳承人梁長(zhǎng)進(jìn)今年68歲，他從20歲開(kāi)始做夏布。夏布是一種傳統(tǒng)的手工藝，也是一種古老的布料。80年代的時(shí)候，它興旺了一段時(shí)間。到90年代，它已經(jīng)開(kāi)始走下坡路。最困難的時(shí)候是2000年的時(shí)候，這個(gè)時(shí)候夏布沒(méi)有人要，也沒(méi)有人做。

Liang Changjin, a provincial representative inheritor of intangible cultural heritage and the fourth-generation inheritor of Liuyang Xiabu, is 68 years old. He started making Xiabu at the age of 20. This grass cloth is both a traditional handicraft, and an ancient kind of fabric. In the 1980s, it flourished for a period of time. By the 1990s, it begun to decline. The most difficult time was in 2000. At that time, no one wanted or made Xiabu.

“所以，這個(gè)東西在我的手上，我不想讓它被‘丟掉’。”到現(xiàn)在梁長(zhǎng)進(jìn)做夏布已經(jīng)四十余年，“我是這樣想，如果不傳承，就沒(méi)有保護(hù)。夏布要有它的前途、要再創(chuàng)輝煌。所以我們就要?jiǎng)?chuàng)新、研發(fā)、發(fā)展。才有它的生命力。”

“So, I preserved the craft, I don't want to see it ‘thrown away’.” Liang Changjin has been making Xiabu for over forty years up to now. “This is what I think, if there is no inheritance, there will be no protection. The future of Xiabu should be promising to achieve new glories.So we need innovation as well as research and development. Only in this way can it burst with vitality.”

瀏陽(yáng)夏布文創(chuàng)中心負(fù)責(zé)人魯松元

走進(jìn)夏布文化創(chuàng)意空間，撲面而來(lái)能感受到它綠色生態(tài)的生命力。我們可以看到超400余款創(chuàng)意產(chǎn)品，包括服飾、包具、家居美學(xué)、茶藝空間等，展現(xiàn)著瀏陽(yáng)夏布傳統(tǒng)工藝與現(xiàn)代時(shí)尚的完美結(jié)合。

Walking into this Xiabu cultural and creative space, we can immediately feel its green energy. We can see over 400 creative products used in clothing, bags, home aesthetics, and tea spaces, which display the perfect mix of traditional craftsmanship and modern fashion.

瀏陽(yáng)夏布文創(chuàng)中心負(fù)責(zé)人魯松元介紹：“全球變暖等氣候問(wèn)題的讓人們開(kāi)始重視綠色，隨著追求原生態(tài)浪潮的興起，如何讓夏布在保持本身特性，維持美學(xué)價(jià)值的前提下，建立高標(biāo)準(zhǔn)、可持續(xù)的方法，是夏布行業(yè)需要持續(xù)努力的方向。”

Lu Songyuan, the person in charge of Liuyang Grass Cloth Cultural and Creative Center, introduced: "The global warming and other climate issues have made people start to pay attention to green. With the rise of the trend of pursuing original ecology, how to establish a high-standard and sustainable method for Grass Cloth while maintaining its own characteristics and aesthetic value is the direction that the Grass Cloth industry needs to continuously strive for."

這場(chǎng)田野調(diào)查之旅來(lái)到尾聲。瀏陽(yáng)夏布值得被世界看見(jiàn)！

This field investigation journey is coming to an end. Liuyang Xiabu deserves global popularity！

采訪/文案/視頻：黃思婷

攝像：謝彬清（實(shí)習(xí)生 ）

翻譯審核：歐陽(yáng)鳳

責(zé)編：黃思婷

一審：黃思婷

二審：王柯灃

三審：冒蕞

來(lái)源：湖南日?qǐng)?bào)·新湖南客戶端